"Instead of just standing at the bar and drinking a quick coffee like in other Italian cities, here we sit down and take our time, we make appointments with each other for caffe. "Coffee is definitely a thing here," said Alessandra Ressa, an English teacher who moved from San Francisco to Trieste 20 years ago. Not only are the Triestini said to drink twice as much of the stuff per year as anywhere else in Italy – an eye-popping 10kg of coffee beans each annually – but it's also home to the Mediterranean's main coffee port and one of Italy's biggest coffee brands: Illy. But in an already coffee-obsessed country, many people might be surprised to learn that this far-flung border city is commonly considered Italy's unofficial "Coffee Capital". After home, this is where social life often unfolds, as people from all generations gather with friends to share the latest gossip and pass the time. As Kochetkova sees it, connecting with the coffee tradition in this city is one of the best ways to truly become a part of Trieste.Ĭafes are a second living room for many Italians. She and her husband, Francesco Stumpo, an Italian from Savona, happily translate Trieste's unique cafe code to help newcomers. "Instead of a ' caffe' (espresso), you order a ' nero' for a cappuccino you say ' caffelatte'." The list goes on. "I thought I needed a PhD to order coffee when I first moved here!" said Maria Kochetkova, editor of In Trieste, an English-language magazine for the city's many expats.
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